HOW TO ORDER

1. Design Your Custom Guitar

Head over to one of our Guitar Customization Tools (configurators) to design your custom guitar, custom bass, custom archtop or custom acoustic guitar. The price of your custom guitar automatically updates based on which custom options you choose. If you want a custom feature on your guitar, but our Customization Tool doesn't offer it, just add a note about it in the Special Instructions and we'll be glad to accommodate your request as we build every guitar from scratch (if your request affects the price, we'll credit you back or bill you accordingly after your order is placed).

2. Submit Your Payment (Pay in Full, Pay 50%, or Financing)

We accept all major credit cards, PayPal, wire transfers, and other major forms of payment.

  • To pay in full:
    • Add your custom guitar to your shopping cart and checkout as usual. The price you see on the Customization Tool is the price you pay
  • To pay a 50% deposit:
    • Click the Slider to change from "FULL AMOUNT" to "50% DEPOSIT" (the Slider is located between the guitar's price and the blue "ORDER" button
    • Add your custom guitar to your shopping cart and checkout as usual
    • Pay the final bill anytime prior to delivery of your custom guitar
  • To finance your purchase:
    • Add your custom guitar to your shopping cart and begin the checkout process as usual
    • Choose the PayPal Credit option during checkout. If you don’t see a PayPal Credit button, check out with PayPal. Then you’ll have the option to select PayPal Credit as your payment method
    • Please be aware that you cannot combine PayPal Credit with any other payment methods when making your payment

3. Confirm Your Order

After you submit your order, a Halo Custom Shop Specialist will email you a draft of your Full Spec Sheet and Agreement for you to review. During this phase, changes can still be easily made to your order. After all the details are confirmed, we will send you a final draft of your Full Spec Sheet and Agreement via DocHub for you to review, sign and finalize.

4. Order Status and Delivery

We build all our guitars from scratch and pay close attention to detail at every stage of the build process (engineering, wood selection, crafting, finishing, assembly, fret work, final setup, packing...). To keep you updated on your order, you will be provided with an Order Status Page at our website (see this example).

After you receive your guitar, please let us know how you like it. We're always seeking to improve our craft and would love to hear your feedback. And of course, if there are any issues whatsoever with your custom guitar, give us a call or email and we'll make it right for you.


GENERAL OPTIONS

Choose Left or Right Hand

A right handed guitar player uses his/her right hand to pick or strum the strings, while their left hand presses the strings against the neck. Left handed guitar players are the opposite.

Choose Number of Strings

A standard guitar comes with 6 strings. A standard bass guitar comes with 4 strings. If you are just starting out, you should stick with 6-string guitar, or 4-string bass. Some players want more strings on their instruments so they can extend the range of notes they can play. This extended range can be lower notes, higher notes, or both.

Choose Scale Length

There is not one standard guitar scale length, but the three most common are 24.75", 25.00" and 25.50", and they are known to be used by Gibson, PRS and Fender, respectively. If you are just starting out, you should choose any one of the three scale lengths mentioned above. If you are tuning your guitar down, we recommend choosing a Baritone Scale Length, which is any scale length longer than 25.50".

For bass guitar, the most common scale length is 34.00". If you are just starting out, you should choose 34.00". Some players might prefer a shorter scale length as they are smaller and easier to play. Choose 30" if you want a short scale bass and try 32" if you want a medium scale bass.

Choose Multiscale Fanned Frets

If you're just starting out, you probably don't need a multiscale (fanned fret) neck. However, some players with limited mobility in their fretting hand can play longer and with more ease on a fanned fret guitar because the frets can be situated in a way that follows more closely to the way our fingers naturally "fan" out from our hands. Apart from ergonomics, multiple scale lengths also make significant tonal impacts. Just consider the relationships between scale length, string tension, string attack and tone:

  • Longer scale length => higher string tension => snappier attack => brighter tone
  • Shorter scale length => lower string tension => rounder attack => warmer tone

The above relationships are part of the reason why Strats are snappier and brighter than Les Pauls. Similarly, it's part of the reason why a 35" scale (or longer) bass guitar has a snappier/tighter/clearer Low B string tone than a 34" scale (or shorter) bass guitar.

Choose Construction Method

The construction method refers to how the guitar neck is attached to the guitar body. There are three ways to attach the neck to the body:

  1. Bolt-on: this is the most economical construction method where the neck is attached to the body with 4 large screws
  2. Set-Neck: this is a slightly more expensive construction method where the neck is permanently attached to the body with glue
  3. Neck-Through-Body: this is the most expensive construction method where the entire neck and center portion of the body are constructed from a continual piece (or pieces) of wood

We don't believe any construction method is necessarily better than another construction method in terms of how the instrument sounds and performs. However, you could consider the following facts to aid your decision:

  • Bolt-on necks are relatively easy to swap out or replace if broken
  • Set-neck and Neck-Through-Body necks cannot be easily swapped out or replaced if broken
  • Neck-Through-Body instruments can allow for the best upper fret access

BODY OPTIONS

Choose Body Shape

For electric guitars and basses, we recommend you choose the shape that appeals to you most because the shape does not significantly affect the way the instrument sounds or performs. Choose from our existing body shapes or send us a drawing of your original design and we'll build it for you.

For acoustic and archtop guitars, the shape has more of an impact. In general, you can get more volume out of a guitar with a larger body without cutaways.

Choose the Body Contour

Our guitars and basses come with a standard body thickness of 45mm. From there, we offer a variety of body contours to serve both functional and aesthetic purposes. A Flat body contour is probably the least comfortable choice for most people, whereas the Forearm & Tummy cut is probably the most comfortable. Tapered Edges will result in a thickness of around 30mm to 37.50mm at the edges that get tapered. A Carved Top adds depth both physically and visually. Carved Top bodies are the thickest overall, ranging from between 50mm to 55mm depending on the body shape. A Reveal Bevel gives a striking appearance by showing off the multiple layers of wood used in the constructing of the body.

For weight relief, we can build any of our bodies to a thickness of 40mm. Just let us know in the Special Instructions.

Choose Body Core Wood

All our instruments are handcrafted from quality tone woods. If you're just starting out, we recommend you choose the wood that appeals to you most based on its appearance and don't worry too much about how the type of wood affects the sound or performance of the instrument.

* The type of body wood used can affect the way an instrument sounds, but it does not make as big of an impact on the sound when compared to other aspects of the guitar, such as the pickups.

Choose Body Top

Body tops are optional on our electric guitars and basses. If you're just starting out, you could either skip this option, or choose the top that appeals to you most. We offer veneer tops (paper-thin layer of wood) and cap tops (thick layer of wood). Most people will add a top to their instrument because of the top’s naturally beautiful appearance. Some people will add a top to their guitar because it can affect the overall sound of the instrument as well (this applies only to cap tops, not veneers).

For our acoustic and archtop builds, Spruce is the popular choice for its broad dynamic range and high volume. Western Red Cedar is warm and the go-to wood for a classical, nylon-stringed instrument. Mahogany offers good fundamental tones and clarity. Sapele is similar to Mahogany but a little brighter with more shimmery highs. For a less mellow sound on your archtop, choose a Maple top.

Choose Body Back

Body backs are optional on our electric guitars and basses. If you're just starting out, you could either skip this option, or choose the back that appeals to you most. We offer veneer backs (paper-thin layer of wood) and cap backs (thick layer of wood). Most people will add a back to their instrument because of the back's naturally beautiful appearance.

Choose the Colors for the Body (Top, Sides & Back)

We offer every color in a variety of styles and finishes. We can also color match if you send us a picture of an existing guitar finish.

Please keep in mind that darker woods will not pair well with brighter transparent colors because of how they blend together. For example, if you want a really bright transparent green color, then you'll get the best result by choosing a lighter colored wood (e.g. Maple) compared to darker colored wood (e.g. Walnut).

Choose the Kind of Color

We offer four kinds of colors:

  1. Natural - choose this if you want to see the wood grain and natural color
  2. Transparent - choose this if you want to see the wood grain
  3. Solid - choose this if you do not want to see the wood grain
  4. Metallic - choose this if you do not want to see the wood grain, and if you want highly-reflective metal flakes mixed in with the color

Choose the Kind of Finish

We offer three kinds of finish:

  • Gloss - choose this if you want your guitar to have a very shiny, highly-reflective surface
  • Satin (Flat, Matte) - choose this if you want your guitar to have a slightly shiny, slightly-reflective surface
  • Open Pore Satin - choose this if you want a satin finish and you want to be able to feel the actual pores/grains of the wood

You may want to consider the following facts to aid your decision:

  1. Generally speaking, gloss finishes are more durable than satin finishes
  2. Gloss finishes attract fingerprints
  3. Gloss finishes can be easily buffed to remove light surface scratches
  4. Satin finishes do not attract fingerprints as much as gloss finishes
  5. Satin finishes cannot be as easily buffed to remove light surface scratches compared to gloss finishes
  6. Open Pore Satin is our thinnest finish option

* The type of finish can affect the way an instrument sounds, but it does not make as big of an impact on the sound when compared to other aspects of the guitar, such as the pickups.

Choose a Burst

Burst edges are optional and purely cosmetic. If you've chosen a veneer top (or back) and decided not to add binding, then you should consider adding a burst edge to your guitar for a cleaner/seamless edge.

Choose Body Binding

Binding is a thin strip of material that is visible from both the top and side view of your guitar body. It is optional and purely cosmetic. We recommend binding if you've chosen a veneer top because it gives a cleaner/seamless edge.

Choose Body Purfling

Purfling is a thin strip of material that is visible only from the top view of your guitar body. It is optional and purely cosmetic.

Choose Custom Graphics

Custom Graphics are optional and purely cosmetic. We've done band logos, album artwork, corporate brand logos, patterns, textures, and much more.


NECK OPTIONS

Choose Neck Wood

The neck wood is used for the headstock and for the back of the neck (where your thumb rests when playing the instrument). Be careful not to confuse the neck wood with the fretboard wood, as they are separate and different. All our necks are handcrafted from quality tone woods. If you're just starting out, we recommend you choose the wood that appeals to you most based on its appearance, and don't worry too much about how the type of wood affects the sound or performance of the instrument.

* The type of neck wood can affect the way an instrument sounds, but it does not make as big of an impact on the sound when compared to other aspects of the guitar, such as the pickups.

Choose Fretboard Wood

The fretboard wood is used for the part where the frets are installed (front of the neck, where you press on the strings). All our fretboards are built from quality tone woods and materials. If you're just starting out, we recommend you choose the wood, or material, that appeals to you most based on its appearance, and don't worry too much about how the type of wood/material affects the sound or performance of the instrument.

* The type of fretboard wood used can affect the way an instrument sounds, but it does not make as big of an impact on the sound when compared to other aspects of the guitar, such as the pickups.

Choose the Color for the Back of Neck

We offer every color in a variety of styles and finishes. We can also color match if you send us a picture of an existing guitar finish.

Please keep in mind that darker woods will not pair well with brighter transparent colors because of how they blend together. For example, if you want a really bright transparent green color, then you'll get the best result by choosing a lighter colored wood (e.g. Maple) compared to darker colored wood (e.g. Walnut).

Choose the Number of Frets

There is not one standard # of frets, but the three most common are 21, 22 and 24 frets. The extra frets simply mean you can play some additional high notes. If you are just starting out, you will probably be just fine choosing 21, 22 or 24 frets. But, you should probably avoid the fretless option unless you're specifically learning how to play fretless instruments.

Choose the Size of the Frets

Frets come in various sizes and materials. If you're just starting out, we recommend choosing Medium size frets made of Nickel Silver. For a more scalloped feel, we recommend Extra Jumbo size frets. For increased durability (wear-and-tear), we absolutely recommend Stainless Steel frets. Stainless Steel frets don't tarnish so string bends always feel smooth and slippery compared to Nickel Silver. Fret material does not make a significant difference in the sound of the instrument, but many players perceive Stainless Steel frets as being brighter sounding than Nickel Silver.

By the way, we use the best fret wire in the world: Jescar Fret Wire.

Choose the Inlays

Inlays allow a player to quickly see where certain positions are located on the fretboard. They are also a great way to decorate, or personalize an instrument. Choose among our existing inlays designs or send us a drawing of your own designs.

Inlays do not make a significant difference in the sound of the instrument.

Choose the Inlay Color

The inlay color does not make a significant difference in the sound of the instrument. We use acrylic material for black, white and pearl white color. We use genuine abalone shell for abalone color. Other materials are available upon special request (e.g. Mother of Pearl, clay, wood, carbon fiber, Luminlay, etc.)

Choose the Side Markers

All instruments come with standard dot side markers on the edge of the fretboard. We offer an optional Luminlay Side Marker upgrade. Luminlay Side Markers glow in the dark and look like this:


Choose Neck Binding

Binding is a thin strip of material that is visible from both the top and side view of your guitar fretboard. It is optional and purely cosmetic. We recommend neck binding if you've chosen to have headstock binding.

Choose Neck Purfling

Purfling is a thin strip of material that is visible only from the top view of your guitar fretboard. It is optional and purely cosmetic.

Choose Nut & Nut Width

We offer three types of nuts:

  1. Conventional Nut (e.g. GraphTech or Bone)
  2. Zero Fret + String Guide
  3. Locking

There are pros and cons to each type of nut. If you're just starting out, stick with a conventional nut and a standard nut width. For more info about nuts, check out this article: Welcome to Guitar Nut 101.



HEADSTOCK OPTIONS

Choose the Headstock Shape

We recommend you choose the headstock shape that appeals to you most. The shape of the headstock does not significantly affect the sound or performance of the instrument. Some of our headstock shapes are pointier, which means they can get damaged more easily when dropped or bumped. Choose from our existing shapes or send us a drawing of your original design and we'll build it for you.

Choose the Headstock Angle

We offer two headstock angles:

  1. Straight
  2. Angled

We can build any headstock shape with any angle and it will be a great guitar. The recommendations we make are based on design conventions for the particular headstock shape. For example, we recommend our Classic headstock shape to have a straight angle because it is more akin to a Fender inline headstock, which has a straight headstock angle. Whereas, we recommend our Traditional headstock shape to be angled because it is more akin to a Gibson 3X3 headstock, which is an angled headstock.

Choose the Color for the Headstock

We offer every color in a variety of styles and finishes. We can also color match if you send us a picture of an existing guitar finish.

Please keep in mind that darker woods will not pair well with brighter transparent colors because of how they blend together. For example, if you want a really bright transparent green color, then you'll get the best result by choosing a lighter colored wood (e.g. Maple) compared to darker colored wood (e.g. Walnut).

Choose Headstock Binding

Binding is a thin strip of material that is visible from both the top and side view of your guitar headstock. It is optional and purely cosmetic. We recommend binding if you've chosen a veneer top because it gives a cleaner/seamless edge.

Choose Headstock Purfling

Purfling is a thin strip of material that is visible only from the top view of your guitar headstock. It is optional and purely cosmetic.

Choose Truss Cover

We offer a variety of materials and even engraved truss rod covers for extra customization. Truss rod cover plates are only available for angled headstocks.


COMPONENT OPTIONS

Choose Hardware Color

The hardware color does not affect the sound or performance of the instrument. It is cosmetic only. Choose the color that appeals to you most. This color will then be used on all hardware, which include screws, nuts, washers, switches, tuners, bridges, and knobs.

Choose the Bridge Type

The bridge is a crucial component on all guitars and basses. It is installed on top of the body and it secures one end of the strings (the other end is secured by the tuning keys).

There are two types of bridges:

  1. Fixed Bridge
  2. Tremolo Bridge

If you're just starting out, we recommend choosing Fixed Bridge. They are easier to keep in tune and maintain. If you plan on using a whammy bar, then choose Tremolo Bridge.

Choose the Bridge Model

There are hundreds of different bridges available on the market. We narrowed our offering down to just a handful of bridges because we believe they are top-notch, and meet the needs of most players based on price and performance.

If you’re just starting out, then we recommend choosing a Tune-o-Matic Bridge, or the Hipshot Fixed Bridge.

Here are some things to consider when choosing among the other bridges:

  1. Tune-o-Matic bridges are one of the most commonly used bridges across the board.
  2. Hipshot Fixed bridges are made with solid brass baseplates, stainless steel saddles, stainless steel springs, and stainless steel screws. They are a string-through-body design.
  3. Evertune bridges keep your guitar in tune forever. Evertune bridges do not require any battery power or special robot gears. It is a passive, all-mechanical solution and can be installed on both flat top and carved top bodies.
  4. Hannes bridges are designed to be extremely comfortable, and to maximize each string’s sound characteristics. The saddles are made with GraphTech’s famed “String Saver” material. You won’t see this bridge too often, as it is most commonly seen used on higher-end, custom/boutique guitars.
  5. Floyd Rose Tremolo bridges feature a double-locking system for the ultimate in tuning stability. They have the widest range-of-motion. If huge dive-bombs and harmonic pull-ups are mandatory, then we recommend the Floyd Rose
  6. Kahler Tremolo bridges feature 6-way adjustable string saddles, which enables you to fine-tune your string action and intonation. They have a fairly wide range-of-motion, but less than the Floyd Rose. The Kahler tremolo arm has a smoother feel compared to the Floyd Rose. A bonus with the Kahler is that it has a convenient locking mechanism to convert the bridge into a fixed bridge (takes less than a minute to switch back and forth between fixed bridge and floating bridge).
  7. Hipshot Tremolo bridges are simple, yet very effective. They have great tone and stay in tune well. They are a more compact system and are great for most tremolo users. They are made with hardened steel pivot pins, a solid machined brass top plate, a solid machined steel tremolo block, and stainless steel saddles.

Choose the Tuners

The tuners are crucial components on all guitars and basses. They are installed in the guitar's headstock and they secure one end of the string (the other end is secured by the guitar’s bridge). There are two types of tuners:

  1. Non-Locking
  2. Locking

Locking tuners are always better than non-locking tuners, but they are more expensive.
It is easier to install strings and easier to keep strings in tune with locking tuners.
If you can afford locking tuners, then we always recommend them over non-locking tuners.

Choose the Pickguard

Pickguards help protect the guitar's finish, but they also add significantly to the overall look of the guitar.

Choose the Pickup Configuration

The Pickups are crucial components on all guitars and basses. They significantly affect the sound of an instrument. They are installed in the instrument’s body. If you’re just starting out on guitar, choose Humbucker pickups if you are playing hard rock and metal styles; choose Single Coil pickups if you are playing country and blues styles; choose P90’s if you want something in the “middle of the road.”

For guitar, we offer three types of pickups:

  1. Humbucker (H) – generally have a thicker sound, higher output, and work well for most styles including hard rock/metal
  2. Single-Coil (S) – generally have a thinner/brighter sound, lower output, and also have a kind of “twangy” sound. They work well for most styles, especially country and blues. Not typically used for hard rock and metal, but this is not a rule.
  3. P90 – generally could be thought of as having a sound somewhere in between that of a humbucker and a single coil. They typically sound fatter than single coils.

For bass, we offer four common types of pickups:

  1. P Style – generally have a “fat, slightly hollow tone”. Commonly used in the neck position.
  2. J Style – generally known to have a brighter sound. Commonly used in the bridge and neck position.
  3. Humbucker – generally have a fuller sound with an emphasis on lows and mids. Commonly used in the bridge and neck position.
  4. MM Style – generally have a cleaner tone, a lot of attack and bite, increased highs and lows. Commonly used in between the bridge and neck position, or in the “sweet spot”.

Choose the Pickup Brand

There are hundreds of different pickups available on the market. We narrowed our offering down to just a handful of pickups because we believe they are top-notch, and meet the needs of most players based on price and performance.

If you’re on a budget, we recommend choosing Halo passive pickups.

To learn more about Bare Knuckle, Lollar, EMG, Seymour Duncan, DiMarzio, Lace, Nordstrand and Bartolini pickups, please visit their respective websites. They are all world-class brands. We're happy to install other pickup brands as well.

Choose the Control Pattern

For 1-pickup configurations, we recommend the 1xVol, 1xTone control pattern.

For 2-pickup configurations, we recommend the 1xVol, 1xTone, 1x3-Way-switch control pattern.

For 3-pickup configurations, we recommend the 1xVol, 2xTone, 1x5-Way-switch control pattern.

Choose the Knobs

Knobs are primarily cosmetic features, but one thing to note is how they are installed. Some are press fit and others are locked down with a set screw. If you are going to have any advanced controls in your guitar, like a push-pull pot, then you might want to consider getting the Dome Knobs because they have a set screw to keep it firmly attached to the potentiometer.

Choose the Cavity Covers

Cavity covers are located on the back of the guitar body. They are omitted for guitars with pickguard-mounted or control-plate-mounted electronics. All cavities and cavity covers are shielded to significantly reduce interference and hum.

Choose the Switch Cap

We offer black, white and cream switch caps. Why not?


SPECIAL OPTIONS

Choose Optional Upgrades

  • Guitar Case – we offer custom-fitted hard shell cases with a variety of exterior and interior color options. For the exterior, we offer black, tweed, and brown. For the interior, we offer black, white, burgundy, navy, and pink. If you’re ordering one of our larger/pointier models, the guitar case is automatically added to your configuration for protection and because universal cases will not fit.
  • Chambered Body - choose a chambered body if you want to reduce the overall weight of your guitar. Chambered bodies also have a unique acoustic sound (a bit more resonant than a solid body) that may carry through to the amp to give a fuller, fatter sound.
  • Strap Locks – these enable you to lock your guitar strap onto your guitar. Without strap locks, your guitar can slip off the strap resulting in damage.
  • Kill Switch – this simple ON/OFF switch enables you to kill the volume of your guitar quickly. Without a kill switch, you need to turn the volume knob all the way down to zero to kill the volume. Some players use kill switches to create stutter effects by switching quickly between ON and OFF repeatedly while playing a chord or note. Our standard kill switch is a 2-way mini toggle, but we also offer momentary kill buttons (imagine a mini arcade button)
  • Coil Split - this option enables you to quickly toggle between full humbucker sound and single coil sound. The coil split switch can either be controlled by a push/pull potentiometer, push/push potentiometer, 2-way mini toggle switch, or incorporated into a 5-way super switch.
  • Locking Output Jack – this output jack locks your instrument cable into your guitar. It is made of black plastic and has a red tab to unlock and release the instrument cable. Without a locking output jack, your instrument cable can accidentally disconnect from your instrument, which could be a disaster when performing live on stage.
  • Your Signature on Headstock – this is a great way to personalize your custom guitar or bass. You can send us a scan of your handwritten signature, choose a font, or send a custom design/graphic/logo/icon.
  • Stainless Steel Frets – Stainless Steel frets are often considered an upgrade compared to “nickel silver” frets because they are more durable, highly resistant to corrosion and require less maintenance over the life of the instrument. This is not to say nickel silver frets are bad (nickel silver frets are installed on the vast majority of all fretted instruments at every price point).
  • Scalloped Fretboard - "On a traditional guitar, you press the string down right behind the fret, and you feel the wood underneath your finger... On a scalloped fretboard... You don’t feel wood under your finger..." To learn more, check out this article from the Halo Blog: https://www.haloguitars.com/store/scalloped-fretboard